-->

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

RAVELRY⇔日本語マニュアル

This post is for Japanese Ravelry users, who may not be sure of all the technical/non-technical terms used often on the site.

このエントリはRavelryをお使いの日本人のための、用語集?です。随時アップいたします。

Project - いわゆる『作品』。

Fav - お気に入り。気に入った物ならなんでもFavできるので(作品、編み図、毛糸)自分は殆どブックマークのように使っています。別に編む意志はなくても大丈夫。むしろ気に入ったらFavしてくれると、デザイナーは喜びます(とくに自分)。
デザイナーからは誰かがFavすると作品詳細ページのFavした人一覧にでますが、特に通知はされません。favを外してもそれが通知される事はありません。

Queue - こちらはもう少し、実際編む意思があるものに使います。例えばこのソックスが編みたい、てか絶対編む、でも今はマフラー編んでるから、とか 今の自分のスキルじゃむり!な時でも、Queueに入れておけば優先順位もつけられるし、在庫毛糸を振り分けたりする事もできます。当然、編む気がなくなってしまったりその編み図以上に編みたい物が見つかってしまったらQueueから外せます。Favと同じく、デザイナー側への通知はQueueに入れたときに一覧に表示される以外は通知されません。

Stash - 在庫毛糸。あまり毛糸、実際作品の為に買った毛糸、自分で紡いだ毛糸、自分で染めた毛糸、もらった毛糸、交換した毛糸。手元にある毛糸は全部stashです。

Library - 手元にある書籍、もしくはダウンロードしたPDFや購入したデジタルマガジンはここに登録できます。するとその書籍内の編み図がすぐまとめて表示されるので検索する手間が省けて楽です。

UFO(wip) - 編みかけ作品。略はUnFinished ObjectとWork In Progress。

FO - 編み上がった作品。Finished Object

Frogged - 編んだ、もしくは編みかけだったけど全部ほどいた作品。語源は"rip it rip it(解け、解け)" 蛙(frog)の鳴き声 "ribbit ribbit"に似てるから。

Hibernating (zzz) - 冬に限られませんが、いわゆる『冬眠中』の作品。しばらく手つかずの作品、優先順位が低いので後回しにされてしまった作品など。

LYS - Local Yarn Store。地元の毛糸屋さん。いわゆるクラフト屋さんではなく、毛糸/編み物専門店。例えばこちらでいうと、いわゆるクラフト屋さんであるJoannやMichales(日本の○ンズやユザ○ヤ)は含まれません。

Skein - いわゆる毛糸の『玉』。でも厳密に言うと日本語では一言の『毛糸一玉』も、こちらでは色々な単位?があって、それぞれれ毛糸のディスプレイのされ方によってかわります。日本で売ってるような、親切に玉にされている(巻かれている)ものは ball、カセになっているものはskein,もしくはhankです。 Hankはどちらかというともっと大きいような感じがすると個人的に思いますが定かではありません。

Meterage - 検索オプションの一つ。『メートル数』。グラムだと素材によって毛糸ひと玉の長さが変わるので、検索する際は毛糸の長さで調べるのが正確。

Yardage - 上と同じく。こちらは『ヤード数』。

Knitting Needle Conversion Chart 編み棒のサイズ比較表。国によってサイズも号数も全く違うので気をつけて。
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitting_needle

Crochet Hook Conversion Chart 上に同じく。こちらはかぎ針編。http://stitchesandmusings.co.cc/japanese-crochet-hook-sizes/


ここからは検索オプションより。

Free - 無料
Purchase online - 有料。Ravelry外のソースから(例えばinterweaveのサイトに行って購入する物など)
Purchase in print - 有料。書籍など、デジタルではない物。
Ravelry download - 有料(無料も?)Ravelry内で購入/ダウンロードできるもの。

Thread -
Cobweb / 1 ply -
Lace / 2 ply - 極細
Light Fingering / 3 ply - 合細
Fingering / Sock/ 4 ply - 合太
Sport / 5 ply -
DK / 8 ply -
Worsted / 10 ply - 並太
Aran / 10 ply - 並太
Bulky / 12 ply - 極太
Super Bulky - 超極太
でもこの辺は注意。表示されていても毛糸によって結構かわります。以前日本で並太を購入したらDKでした。特に並太は差がありそうなので、ゲージスウオッチは大切。


Acrylic - アクリル
Alpaca - アルパカ
Angora - アンゴラ(ウサギ)
Bamboo - 竹
Bison - バイソン
Camel - キャメル
Cashmere - カシミヤ(ヤギ)
Cotton - コットン(綿)
Hemp - 麻
Linen - リンネル
Llama - ラマ
Merino - メリノ(羊)
Metallic - メタリック
Microfiber - マクロファイバー
Mohair - モヘア(ヤギ)
Nylon - ナイロン
Other - その他
Plant fiber - 植物性
Polyester - ポリエステル
Qiviut - ジャコウウシ
Rayon - レーヨン
Silk - 絹
Soy - 大豆
Tencel - テンセル(セルロース系繊維)
Wool - 羊毛
Yak - ヤク


道具編

Straights - いわゆる棒針。針先が片方、もう片方はストッパー。
DPN - Double Point Needles。針の両端が針先。四本/五本棒針。
Circular (fixed) - 一般的な輪針。針とケーブルが固定されているもの
Circular (interchangeable) - 付け替え式?輪針。
Stitch Holder - ほつれ止め。編んでいる箇所を中断する時に使用
Jump Rings / Stitch Marker - 目数リング
Row Marker - 段数リング
Scrap Yarn - 余り毛糸。

編み方編

CO (Cast On) - 編み始め。作り目。単に作り目と言っても色々あるのでご注意。大抵は伸縮性や見た目重視なのでいわゆる作り目でも大丈夫ですが、こだわる場合はパターン通りに。ただし、Provisional Cast On もしくは Crochet Cast on (別鎖)の場合は後に拾い目をする事が殆どなので必ずその通りにするように。http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/cast-on
BO (Bind Off) もしくは CO (Cast Off) - 伏せ止め
Dec - 減らし目
Inc -  増し目
Knit (K) - 表編み
Purl (P) - 裏編み
Yarn Over (YO) - 掛け目
Twist Stitch - ねじり目
KFB - 増し目の一つで、目の手前と奥を編む。
Slip Knitwise - すべり目。針を表編みを編むように入れる
Slip Purlwise - すべり目。針を裏編みを編むように入れる
Slip - 表記がない場合一概には言えません。ただし、たとえば編み時の端をそろえたりする為に使う場合は Slip Knitwise、後に目を拾う辺だったり、モザイク編みなどをする時はPurlwiseが原則。
SSK(Slip Slip Knit)/ S1, K1, Psso (slip, knit, pass slip stitch over)/ K2tog tbl (Knit to together through back Loop) - やり方は違うけれどどれも結果は右上二目一度
K2tog (Knit 2 Together)/K1, S1, psso (Knit, slip, pass slipped stitch over) - 同じくやり方は違うけれどすべて左上二目一度
C3B C6Fなど - ケーブルの印。真ん中の数字はケーブルの合計目数。故にもしこの数字が6だった場合ケーブル針に載せるのは3目。最後がFの場合はケーブル針に載せた目を手前に持ってくる。Bの場合は後ろ。
T3Fなど - 同じくケーブルの印。こちらはケーブルの奥になる方が裏目。


色々ありますんで全部は書ききれませんが(汗)
また後に足していく事になると思います。どうぞよろしく!

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Film Geek Scarf is BACK!

I finally finished another one of these, and planning to make more.
The Film Geek Scarf IV - Thriller for sale on ETSY!


This time its red, and in multiple shades.

If you want to make one for yourself, you can purchase the pattern on both Etsy and Ravelry.  For more details, go to this blog entry!

Depends on how many I get, but I do take commissions for this scarf for $60+material.
Here are some ideas, but definitely not limited to these.

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Free Pattern! Quick Cable Slouch Hat//Hat constructions



This is a pattern I had made to teach my student how to make her first cabled hat, so I made sure it was not intimidating.
Very quick to knit, so great for gifts.
I have used a bulky alpaca yarn so it had a fair drape and a pom-pom was too heavy, but it may work better if you use wool.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
*Note*
I have originally posted and recommended size #10 needles for the body, but it seems like many people have been getting a less slouchy result.  If you want to get a slouchy hat for sure, it might be better to use size #11 for the body. I don't have a specific gauge, but the fabric for the main body should be somewhat loose and have a bit of a drape.  If your swatch is closely knit and sturdy, your hat WILL become a beanie.


Another note is on the *K3M1* increase; if you do chose to use KFB, watch out where you do that, since if you do *K3 KFB* the number WILL NOT match.


PRINTER FRIENDLY VERSION
Materials Needed:
US7 or 8 for Brim
US10 or 11 for Body
(NOTE : I had used #8 and #11, and the body was pretty big so I felted down a little.  My student used #7 and #10, and it was a little less slouchier than the one I felted down.  For snug brim I recommend 7, but if you want a big hat, try #11 for the body.#10 will give you a less-slouchy hat.  Another way to add slouch is to do extra cable repeats before decrease.)


For either, DPN, fixed 16" Circular, Using 32"+ needles to work in Magic loop is your choice.
I used Cascade Yarns Baby Alpaca Chunky.  The hat weighs around 120g, so it is safe to use 2 skeins, but you'll have a good portion of the second one left.

Directions:
Cast on 72st using smaller needles.
2x2 rib for AT LEAST 10 rows in Main Color.
(note to beginners, from experience--I know how it feels when you kind of get sick of ribbing quickly and want to move on to the body, but if you make your brim too short, you will end up with a hat that doesn't stay on your head!  So be patient--you'll get there soon enough :D Make sure you get at least 1.5")

Increase row : Repeat *K3M1* (96st)

Change to the bigger needle.  If you chose to change colors between the brim and body, change your yarn to Contrasting color in the next row.

Establishing rows:

Row1, 2 and 3) P2, K6, P2, K6
Row 4) P2, T6F, P2, K6

T6F: put the next 3 st on a cable needle and hold it in the front, knit the next 3 st, and then knit the 3st on the cable needle.  If you find holding the stitches on the back is easier, you can do that instead.  Just once you decide which one you like, stick to that throughout the hat.


From there, repeat these rows 2 times:
Row 1~7)P2, K6, P2, K6
Row 8) P2, T6F, P2, K6

At this point you should have 3 cable 'twists'

Decrease section:
Row 1) P2 K6 P2, K4, K2tog (90st)

Row 2) P2 K6 P2, K5 (aka "even") (90st)
Row 3) P2 K6 P2, K3, K2tog (84st)
Row 4) P2 K6 P2, K4 (aka "even")  (84st)
Row 5) P2 K6 P2, K2, K2tog (78st)
Row 6) P2 K6 P2, K1, K2tog (72st)
Row 7) P2 K6 P2, K2tog (66st)
Row 8) P2 T6F (if you have been doing T3B, do that here), P1, P2tog (60st)
Row 9) P2 K6 P2tog (54st)
Row 10) P2 K5 K2tog (48st)
Row 11) P2 K4 K2tog (42st)
Row 12) P2 K3 K2tog (36st)
Row 13) P2 K2 K2tog (30st)
Row 14) P2 K1 K2tog (24st)
Row 15) P2tog k2tog (12st)
Row 16) K2tog (6st)

Cut yarn, draw through remaining 6 stitches.  Pull tightly to close the hole. 
Weave in ends in the inside of the hat and block.

Hope you guys like it!


This pattern (including text & images) is an original AZURE KNITS design. It is for personal use only. Other uses, including but not limited to reproduction, distribution, or sales of the pattern is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved.



================================


Thought I'd post this little thing too, just to give some notes to beginner knitters.
Here are two basic constructions of hats, that may help you.

Saturday, September 25, 2010

New Pattern! Drawstring Hat and Neck Warmer 2010

Hiyaaaaa

SO!! I finally have a new pattern.
I think I'm going to try to design one drawstring hat every year.
This year its looong.


Anyways, you can purchase the pattern from Ravelry or Etsy.


I just have one tip to everyone who is thinking of trying to knit this.


BLOCKING IS NECESSARY.

When you knit lace, it looks horrible right off the needle.
I mean, seriously. Look at this!


This is how the hat (Sapphire) looked when I just finished.
After blocking, it looked like the finished product.
This happens with every lace project, so if you're a first time lace pattern knitter, don't get discouraged!

Thursday, August 26, 2010

DPN vs Circular?

I think there was only one time I tried making a hat with DPNs.
It was my first one--or was it? I can't remember if mine or my husband's were the first hat I ever made.. anyhow, since I made a bad choice when I bought the needle and got a heavy, slippery metal DPNs I just couldn't do it.  Every few minutes the needles fell off onto the floor and I'd panic.  Later, I got my first circular needles and was...amazed.  you really did not have to think ANYTHING.
<-one of my first hats I ever made, 2009

So ever since that incident, if whatever I"m knitting had a circumference of 14" or more, I don't hesitate to pick up my circulars.  Well..everything other than small diameter knitting, really.  I rarely use straights anymore.  Circulars are way portable. I knit 99% of my flat stuff on circulars too, also because of the interchangeable needle sets I have.
Ever since I taught myself magic loop, I was pretty much in love with it.
Being able to use just two needles and 2 needle tips instead of 4-5 needles and 8-10 needle tips were just...Huzzaaaah!! especially as a knitter who's mother kept on sending her how she shouldn't knit on the train because I'll eventually kill someone (well..she didn't go that far) and got kinda paranoid herself that she'll poke someone.  Since one of the things I don't like about knitting hats are the decreases, and how I eventually have to switch to a DPN at one point to knit a standard shaped hat, I'm almost tempted to knit my hat on a 60" circular w/magic loop...or, at least the decreases w/magic loop.

For knitting a small diameter tube that is mainly stockinette, I absolutely recommend magic loop.
Why--because magic loop gives you slightly more time of mindlessness.

Say your socks has 64 stitches all around.
If you use magic loop, you can mindlessly knit for 32 stitches before you have to switch over to the other side, as oppose to knitting 16 stitches and switching needles four times.

But here comes the 'preference' bit.
Some people say magic loop is faster, but does it really make a difference?  Because frankly, I don't think there isn't really.

While you only have to swap needles two times when you use magic loop instead of three or four, you have to do a bit of sliding and adjusting before you can start knitting the other side.  On the other hand, if you use DPNs you will have to switch needles few more times, but when you're done with one needle, you can immediately start on the next one.
I guess this won't be the case if you're using an 8" DPN for your socks, because you'd have to slide and adjust the stitches towards the tip instead of the center part of the needle.  As I recently got into sock knitting, I got myself a 4" DPNs from Knitpicks.  Since I love metal needles, going back to wood was a bit 'eeh..' for me, even though I love harmony wood needles.  When I do decreases I feel like I'm just going to crack the tiny toothpick-needles in half (fortunately this hasn't happened yet).  However, it's probably good that it's not metal, esp. because the needles are so short.  These 4" needles are pretty amazing.  Yes, they're just a little short enough that you sometimes have few needles poking at your palm, so some may find it too painful.  But you'll either 1) develop a callus or 2) figure out needle placement so that doesn't happen.  I would have to be careful when I put my WIP socks in my bag (though I could get one of those tube-thing ), but those 4" needles----are strangely growing on me.  Also because I don't have to worry about the long cable dangling off the sock that the yarn occasionally gets tangled in, and since you know the needles are poking your own palm you're kind of...pretty much safe from poking other people.  haha.

Another reason why DPNs aren't totally mehh is that many sock patterns seem to have the DPN method in mind. I haven't looked through a whole database of sock patterns so I may be wrong, but the one I saw so far has stuff written, especially from the heel turn and on.  There will be stuff like "work till the last 3 st. of needle 2, k2tog, k1"
which, if you are using magic loop you'd need to do a little more counting.


So for socks, I'm pretty neutral. Both DPN and Circular needles are good.  Though I really can't find a reason to use long DPNs to knit a sweater yoke, if people like it that way, that's the way they should knit.


Ok now I'm not really sure how to conclude this entry, but here you go.  Here's my ramble on DPNs and Circulars.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Another one done!--"LUX series"

So last night I finished the second bag-hat, which was not on the list.
Same pattern as the MIXBERRY but in blues, so I'm calling it SAPPHIRE.

This will be included in the upcoming "LUX" series.
This year I'm going to have two separate general "lines", one being the regular line which I will still make sure the materials are picked carefully, and LUX series being the ones I knitted with luxury yarns that I kind of have to splurge to buy.  That meaning silk, baby alpaca, pure kid mohair, pure bamboo, possibly yak/camel/cashmere in the future, and some hand-dyed yarns, which means no two skein has the exact same color/color variations.

So what I'm aiming to do with this line is to give people a chance to purchase luxury knitwear for themselves and for their loved ones without spending a fortune--since if you buy accessories with these materials in a regular store, price could easily shoot up to 3digits for a tiny thing.

This Sapphire's body is made with "premium blend of 50% alpaca and 50% silk", and wool/silk blend for the brim and drawstring.  Silk gave this hat a subtle and elegant sheen. Since some people may feel alpaca is a little too toasty, I made this one with the same eyelet lace and with a slightly looser gauge so it doesn't get overly hot.

I hope I get to take photos soon... Coming up is a two-tone wrist warmer!

Yarn x Needle Combination II

I will be updating this post as I try more combinations! These however are just my opinions, so it doesn't mean it feels the same for everyone.

KP = KnitPicks LB = Lion Brand. Metal includes KP Nickel Plated, Addi and HiyaHiya, Bamboo includes Clover and eKnittingNeedles.
If anybody particularly hates a combination or found a surprising match, please let me know!

KP Swish
KP Harmony Wood : Squeak! Not as bad as acrylic yarn, but it definitely squeaks a little.
KP Zephyr : Squeak!
Susan Bates Quicksilver :
Metal : Great
Bamboo : Great


KP DK Cotlin
KP Harmony Wood : Great
KP Zephyr :
Susan Bates Quicksilver :
Metal : Great
Bamboo : Little Snag

KP Wool of the Andes
KP Harmony Wood : Great
KP Zephyr : Good
Susan Bates Quicksilver : OK
Metal : Great
Bamboo : Great

KP Andean Silk
KP Harmony Wood : Great
KP Zephyr : Surprisingly, Great
Susan Bates Quicksilver : OK
Metal : Great
Bamboo : Great

Red Heart 100% Acrylics
KP Harmony Wood : Squeak!
KP Zephyr : Squeak!
Susan Bates Quicksilver : OK not bad--but meh.
Metal : Squeak!
Bamboo : Squeak!

LB Vanna's Choice
KP Harmony Wood : Squeak!
KP Zephyr : Squeak!
Susan Bates Quicksilver : actually Great
Metal : Squeak!
Bamboo : Squeak!


LB Fisherman's Wool
KP Harmony Wood : Great
KP Zephyr :
Susan Bates Quicksilver :
Metal : Great
Bamboo : Great

LB Lion's Wool
KP Harmony Wood :
KP Zephyr :
Susan Bates Quicksilver :
Metal : Great
Bamboo : Great

Bernat 100% Acrylics
KP Harmony Wood : Squeak!
KP Zephyr : Squeak!
Susan Bates Quicksilver :
Metal : Squeak!
Bamboo : Squeak!

Thursday, July 29, 2010

Magic Loop Made even Easier--Introducing "THE ODD MAGIC TECHNIQUE"!!

I was teaching my friend how to use the Magic Loop method.
For people who are not familiar with the technique, it is a way to do a small diameter without using DPNs, but a long circular needle instead.  Usually the circulars only allow diameters that are larger than it (for example, if the cable is 16" you can't make a tube much smaller than that).

Since I'm not confident in explaining the technique in my own words, I recommend you to search online for that, haha but I did find a little tip.

Actually, there is a way to knit something in same guage with two different needles (that meaning holding holding one size needle on your right hand and a different size in your left).
It may be hard to do that with two straights, but as long as your right hand needle is kept constant, you can use a smaller one for the left and it won't make a difference.  That is because the "left needle" is merely a stick holding the stitches.
So say if you have #4 on your left and #7 on your right.
If you are using straights, I repeat that it would be hard, because to make this happen you'd have to knit one row, then slide everything on to the #4, then knit another row with #7 in your right hand, knit one row, then slide everything back to the #4...
Why would you want to do that unless you lost one of your 7s but desperately need to knit because  you're being chased by a weird monster who can't attack you while you're knitting?

Well..this won't work too well with straights, but how about interchangeable needles?

This morning I was on the subway, knitting as usual, in magic loop, but I came to a point I had  to switch to a larger needle.

I was using the Knitpicks option needles, and didn't feel like screwing both ends off and on again on a moving train, so I just changed one.

Then I noticed that having a #4 on the right and the #7 on the left, the stitches glided way easier.  I always had a problem where I knit just tight enough that I have to squeeze the stitches off the chord and onto the needle, preparing to knit.
It even made cabling easier.  I had just started experimenting the method where you don't use cable needles, but since now its much easier for the stitches to slide, its MUCH easier to move the stitches on and off the left needle----without dropping the stitch because you tugged a little hard.  Anyho, when you're knitting in the round with a single circular, you only ever hold needles one way or the other so you CAN do this.  It won't work with DPNs.

So, if you have the problems I had, give this a shot.  Leave me a comment--let me know how it feels!

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Sneak Peek!

So I've been working on the new inventory for the grand reopening on Sept 15th, and here are some of the photos I have; some I've finished but don't have the photo yet and some I haven\t finished or forgot or changed my mind:P



Simple Chaos ISimpleChaosArmWarmer
Strawberry II

I liked this hat quite a lot I decided to make a silk mohair one in the same pattern.  I will probably make a pattern of this for sale too.









Tiramisu IIWIP - ex_0001_Layer Comp 2

This one is finished for a while but hasn't had a chance to get its photo taken.


More coming!!

Thursday, July 8, 2010

#7!


WIP -
Originally uploaded by zenith8882
Yay! so the "Berry Mix" Drawstring Lace Bag-Hat is pretty much done. It's being blocked, the drawstring is ready, and waiting for it to be assembled.

This was kinda...very, very improv hat..hope people like it :P

Friday, July 2, 2010

Blocking Tiramisu..


Yay! So out of that huge goal inventory list...I finished #5 out of 13+.
"Tiramisu" Entralac Hat is now done and is being blocked.



"Giant Twist" Wrist Warmers are coming along, and I'm concentrating on "Berry Mix" Drawstring Lace Bag-Hat since yesterday and will be for few days.  Multi-color Filmstrip scarf is almost at the crocheting stage.   The KAMON series is going to be a one-hand work/drawing gauntlet.  It is done prototyping, and I'm hoping the next one will be final.


I might take a week or two breaktime to work on my own autumn/winter tunic...kinda itching to work on bigger projects :P

Sunday, June 27, 2010

Check!

So out of the list so far---
"SIMPLE CHAOS" Hat + Arm Warmers
"Strawberry" Drawstring Hat+Neck warmer
and the Vine Lace Scarf are done.
Photos yet to come, but here is one!



Saturday, June 26, 2010

Free Pattern! Grapevine Lace Scarf

 So yay to free pattern! It was pretty simple and straight forward that I didn't really feel like charging $ for the pattern. So what the heck. Free is good. Everybody likes free stuff.

Here you go!


All you need is a worsted weight yarn and #5(3.25mm) needle. Straight or circular doesn't matter, and gauge doesn't really matter either. Since I wanted to make a thin and breezy spring/summer scarf...or..scratch that.  Actually it was the other way around...this pattern was born since I found this beautiful skein of Farmhouse Yarns Bonnie's Bamboo.  Slick and shiny and slightly varied color.  But you can use any other fiber--cotton, wool, aplaca, linen...anything you like.




Cast on 28 Stitches. If you want the scarf to be wider, you can do so by using the formula
(8x st)+12
so it could be 28 or 36 or 44, and so on.  If you feel like making this into a blanket, keep on adding that 8 till desired width,


Row 1-5 is seed stitch.
 RS : K1P1..to the end. Should end with P1.
 WS : P1K1...to the end. Should end with K1.


From here, we start the Grapevine Lace stitch with 3 rows of garter stitch border to prevent curling. This means the first 3 stitches and the last 3 stitches on both RS and WS are knit stitch.
*the stitches between the asterisks* means you repeat those stitches
The borders are included here, so don't worry about counting them, just follow what's here..


Row:1 -K5 *k2 tog, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2* to the last 7st, k7

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 - K3, P until the last 3st, K3.

Row: 3 -K4, k2tog, k1, yo *
k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2 tog, k1, yo* to the last 5st, k5


Row: 5 -   K6, yo *k3, yo, k1, ssk, k1, yo* to the last 6st, k6


Row: 7 - K8    *k2 tog, k1, yo, k1, ssk, k2* to the last 5st, k5


Row: 9 - K7  *k2 tog, k1, (yo, k1) twice, ssk* to the last 6st, k6


Row: 11 - K6, k2 tog  *k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, k2 tog* to the last 5st,k5

All you need to do is repeat those 12 rows until desired length.

After you complete the 12th row of the last repeat, do another 5 rows of seed stitch like the first 5 rows,  then bind off.


Block it off and you gots a nice lace scarf! weeee!

I'm sorry I only have a bad photo right now but I will update it in a bit!



I'd usually say "all rights reserved" blabla if you make stuff from my original design don't sell it etc, but this pattern is so generic..so go ahead and sell it if you wish.  But if you do sell it please mention AZURE and add a link to AZURE KNITS (http://knits.azure-m.com).  Thanks!


Thursday, June 24, 2010

Coming up @ AZURE KNITS

It has been a while since the last time I posted new items or patterns on AZURE KNITS for sale. Partly because of the whole wedding and after work-work business, and partly because its getting pretty hot, and I thought I probably should wait until summer is over to post new items. Anyways I hope you're in a well air-conditioned room, possibly freezing, in your office or classroom while you're reading this because you're gonna start sweating if you're not!

These are the items coming up, in various stages, either finished and waiting for photo, under production or still a ball of yarn.

"SIMPLE CHAOS" Hat + Arm Warmers ..and hand warmer?
Made from 100% Merino handpainted yarn. No cable or lace to show off the colors. Arm warmers go half way up the arm, and with an open thumb.  The hat is also very simple and slightly slouchy.  I have one more ball of this yarn left, so I might make a pair of hand warmers too.

"Strawberry" Drawstring Hat+Neck warmer
One of my first original pattern, in red and green.  Made in 100% Superwash Merino.

"Berry Mix" Drawstring Lace Bag-Hat
A second model of Drawstring hat in two shades of purple, now with lace, and not much of a neck warmer but you can if you want to use it that way.  Much longer.  75% Cotton 25% Acrylic for winter-spring use and stretchier than just cotton.

"Tiramisu" Entralac Hat
100% wool.  More of a tam, with rows of alternate color rhombuses.

"Giant Twist" Wrist Warmers
Made with 100% Baby alpaca fingering~sport weight yarn in heather grey.  Extreeeeemely soft.

Kamon Series "HIRA YOTSU-ME" Wrist Warmers
Debating if I should keep this an one-arm "work wrister".  100% wool.  I'm thinking of making two lines of Japanese themed accessories and this is one of them, featuring traditional crests.

Japanese Pattern Series "HOUJOU UROKO" Wrist Warmer
Also debating if I should make it one-arm wrister, and also the second line I'm trying to develop, based on traditional Japanese patterns that I have been interested for years.  Made with fair isle technique.  100% wool.

"Grapevine" Bamboo Scarf
A somewhat narrow lace scarf made with 100% Bamboo (and handpainted!) yarn.  Very smooth and slick.  Great for spring/summer, warm climate winter and as an 'accent' scarf.

Vine Lace Scarf
Knitted in lace yarn!  100% Merino.  With rows of delicate vine lace.  Black/green-ish heather.

Antique taste airy cowl
A simple cowl knitted in 100% Merino lace yarn with a ribbon.  Heathered tan-ish base, and planning to look for a wine-red ribbon.

Multi-color Filmstrip Scarves
The most popular pattern of AZURE KNITS, now in multi-colored cells!

Also I'm thinking of a 2-layered hat made in lace yarn that I got the idea from one of my friend's hat, and couple more basic wrist warmers (esp. the diamond cable)

I'm crossing my fingers..I hope I finish these (some are already) before 9/15.  Wish me luck, and look forward!

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Cable VS Lace?

Once you're past the beginner level and start to get bored of garter, stockinette or rib, the next step you'd probably think is whether to go cable or lace.

Both cable and lace are not as complicated as they look.
The difficult part of both is just keeping track of stitches and rows.

I personally like lace better, only because I'm not too fond of that extra little needle (cable needle) you need to deal with, and the fear of dropping the stitch while transferring the stitches onto and off the cable needle.  Also because right when I come to the cabling point, and because you're pulling the stitches towards or away, you kind of have to squeeze your needle and struggle to get through the loop.  There are ways to do cable without cable needles (which I have yet to explore), and the good thing about cabling is that most of the time, after a cabling row comes a couple rows of mindless straight knitting.
The struggling to knit the further stitches only gets obvious when there are more than 5 stitches you're crossing over.   (Also keep in mind that the 'cross-over' of these cables make the fabric thicker in that area and makes more warm fabric!)
But anyways, unless you go fancy and try to make different interval cables running alongside each other, cable is easy, because other than the cable needle, all you need is the ability to do a knit stitch and purl stitch. Sometimes you don't even need to know purl, but most cables have a purl stitch or two on their side in order to make the cable more obvious.  Depending on the kind of cable, it gets 'lost' in stockinette background.  However, by having those extra purl stitches (a ditch, basically) on either side, the cables pop out.

Anyways to conclude...do not fear cable.  It is NOT hard.  Just make sure that you place a row marker or something to indicate where you started that cable pattern repeat.  And make sure, to REMEMBER IF YOU PUT THAT MARKER AT 'BEGINNING OF THE REPEAT' OR 'END OF THE REPEAT'. And also, IF YOU'RE PLACING A STITCH MARKER, PLACE IT SOMEWHERE IN THE STOCKINETTE ZONE.
It sounds simple, but believe me.  I've screwed up many times, especially when I put the project aside and come back to it in few weeks.  If you don't remember where exactly you placed that marker, its just as useless as not having any markers.  Write it down somewhere if you're bad as I am.  Counting rows on a stockinette is easy, but its a bit harder to distinguish where exactly the actual cabling occurs, once it is done.

Lace, on the other hand requires more techniques.  Yo, k2tog, ssk, sk2p are the most common, and sometimes you get some weird stuff like k2tbl (knit two through back loop) .
So technically speaking, though most of those stitches are similar, lace is more advanced.  However, if you ask me if it is "easy" or not than cable, I almost feel like once you know how to do those stitches, lace may be easier.
Easier in a way that---you may want some stitch markers for wider lace project, but you don't really need anything.  K2togs and sk2ps and stuff, you can do without any additional tools like the cable needles.  That's partly why I prefer lace project for commuting knit project.  Pulling out that small cable needle, transferring stitches while you're been rocked by the train is a bit more scary for me.

Once you get used to lace, it is FUN.  Yes you'll most probably need to print out and carry around your pattern, crossing them out as you go, and its kinda messy to tink because there are so many complex stitches.  But the is something called the lifeline (yet another thing I need to explore), but I just make sure I get the correct number of stitches each time.  Usually the WS is basically purling, you only really need to check stitches every other row.  By the way you probably don't want to work on it when you're a bit sleepy or braindead.  (and that's when mindless garter/stockinette project comes handy!).  But for other times, esp for morning commute, its like a nice little brain-stimulating puzzle.

Anyways,  both cable and lace is 'easy' in their own way, and level of complexity also depends on what cable/lace pattern you're using.  I hope this article helped some beginner+ knitters to take one step forward.  Don't be scared! =P

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Before and After Blocking

Guaging and Blocking are probably the key to sanctification when it comes to knitting.  I'm still really bad with taking guages, but I feel blocking is...just absolutely necessary.
A simple stockinette hat may not show as surprising results, but still will even out the stitches.  I first didn't know much about blocking, and all I knew was "steam your finished project with your steam iron.  Just steam. Don't press".  Steaming and misting are the two other kinds of blocking, and you should decide which method to take depending on the fabric you're using, but I prefer dunking the finished projects into the water and leaving it for 30 mins, then ring it gently and shape it, then let it dry.

Blocking shows its power for lace project the most, I think.  When you first finish a lace project, honestly---it looks kinda pathetic.
Edges curled up, the k2togs and stuff are kinda bunched up, yarn over-s are kinda there and not there.....but when you block it, this 

Transforms into this.


so mark my words, blocking is, like many people say, pretty important.  So do it! ;P

Sunday, June 6, 2010

Surprise! Yarn x Needle Combination

Whoever has read some stuff on my knitblog probably knows how much I don't like acrylic yarn, and how I'm not thrilled with Susan Bates metal needles either.  The reason of that is----when I knit with acrylic yarns, not only do I hear squeaks but also feel that squeaky vibrations through my fingertips, kinda going to my spine, giving me...almost those 'chills' that you feel when you hear styrofoam squeaks.  *shiverr*  So I can't knit more than 3 rows without having to put it down for a bit.  Maybe 5 minutes for crocheting.

But today, I found a little surprise.  I needed more dishcloth/kitchen cloth, so I reluctantly took out my acrylic yarn (Vanna's Choice) that I bought a while back when I was into crocheting acrylic scrubbies. 
I knew my Hiya Hiya or Addi needles will still give me those chills, so I tried the Knitpicks Harmony Wood.  But unfortunately yes, still lots of squeaking.  So I was wondering what other needles I can try out.  (Good thing it needed #8 needles,  cause I feel like I have tons of 8s)
So I reluctantly brought out my Susan Bates needles, which I have always not liked--just had it since it was one of the first needles I got.

But guess what?  I don't feel the squeak.  At least not yet.  I think i have been knitting few minutes by now but I don't feel that vibration.  Like magic!

So, Susan Bates metal needles,  I owe you an apology.  Sorry needle, I will use you when I knit with acrylic yarn.
I think its the Susan Bates Quicksilver... :3

Friday, April 30, 2010

Needlemania - Comparing popular Knitting Needles

Recently I've been noticing the ridiculous amount of needles I have at home--both knitting and crochet.  As I went deeper and deeper into knitting, my taste in needles changed, and found that each type of needle has their pros and cons.  I have opinions on each and one of them, so I thought I'd share them, and compare the needles so people may have an idea before they buy them.

I've got all sorts, Bamboo, wood, metal, and plastic.  Unfortunately I haven't tried rosewood or ebony.
Brandwise, I've tried Clover, Hamanaka, Addi, Susan Bates, Boye, Hiya-Hiya, eKnittingneedles.com, Knitpicks.

I'm going to start with general--materials as a whole, first.
Plastic-I have no heart for this LOL  I got my first crochet hook for myself from a 99c store, saying "heck, I'll give it a shot".  It works just fine, but absolute no weight at all, which sounds good but I don't think I like at all.
Bamboo-Nice and 'sticky', meaning the stitches do not shift over and slide off.  I guess that's why its most common, being perfect for beginners and occasional knitters.  Some experienced knitter may find this stickiness irritating, since it slows down the knitting speed.

The formula is this: 
Sticky : Nonsticky = Safe : Fast.

While bamboo is a great material for needles, the tips could be chapped to cause MAJOR annoyance.  Also, if you get a too-cheap one, they warp.  Points could vary, but most I've come across are pretty blunt, which means if you start dealing with k2togs k3togs, you may get frustrated.  Still, until you get confident, go for bamboo.

Wood-A little less stickier, but still sticky.  Points, again varies but the ones I've come across are nice and pointy, which makes those K3togs easier.  If you're going for lacy project, this may be a good choice.  I'm not sure if wood chips often, but so far none of mine has.

Metal-If you're going for speed, go for metal!  But watch out, if you knit loose, using a bigger needle for the yarn or still not extra confident, prepare for the needle to slip riiight off.  Especially DPNs.  Also I heard that some people have Nickel Allergy.  That can't be good.  Otherwise, since metal has very little to no stickiness, it is FAAAST.  You'll find yourself knitting like a wind because you don't have to keep on 'feeding' the stitches on the left needle, or at least waay less often.

Oki, that said, I'll move on to individual brand infos and my reviews.

Clover: I've got straights and circulars.  Being Japanese, this was the first brand I used.  Its probably the most common one found in Japan.  This is the first recommendation I'd give to first time knitters.  Their bamboo needles are high quality, and loved by many for decades.  I still use it occasionally, but now I'm all about metal needles so unfortunately they aren't getting much love from me now.  Only when I'm all out of the size :P


Susan Bates: I've got straigt, crochet hooks, DPNs.  This was the second brand I tried.  The metal ones.  I'm not sure if they have others.  They might have plastic hooks.  I had no knowledge whatsoever, so I was like "meh, I'll give it a shot".  It's probably very commonly found in local fabric stores--not even yarn stores.  Very accessible and quite cheap.  But I didn't like it too much.  Points are fine, but kind of painful after few minutes.  Its also heavy---OHH and I just realized that--that's probably why the needle slides off so easily.  I'm sure any user of Susan Bates would understand what "clink--clink..clink..NOOOOO!" is.
Their crochet hook however, is not bad at all.  At least the metal ones.  I still occasionally use them.  BUT your hand starts hurting pretty quickly--more quicker as the hook gets smaller.  Just the right amount of...lets call it the 'hook indentation', which I will explain in the next section.

Boye: I've got a crochet hook, and I couldn't really use it,  The hook indentation was too much for me, so it was yes, easy to hook the yarn, but took time to unhook it.  Also the strange squiggliness they have on the hook is something I did not enjoy.  Poop.


Hamanaka: I've got a crochet hook set (raku-raku series), and don't think I'll ever need to buy another set in the size I have in this set.  Nice rubber grip for ease, even for smaller hooks and longer use.  They're double ended, so you get half the number of needles.  Yippeee!!  Anyways, I still want to try the clover Pen-E's and the Addi crochet hook, but I'm in no hurry.


Addi(Skacel): I've got some circulars(Turbo) and the Click System (Interchangeable).
THESE GUYS converted me to metal needles.  I randomly came across it in a local yarn store, attracted by the word 'TURBO" and gave it a shot.  It was a good decision. Totally turbo, no doubt. Too bad the 16" circulars only costs like $15 each.  But my awesome in-laws gave me the click system for Christmas!!  I TOTALLY love them. Other than the price, I have one and a half more issue.  The fixed circulars are just fine, but the connection of the click system seems to catch the yarn a lot.  I'm always a bit scared that it damages my yarn, especially lace weight.  I'm slowly migrating to other brand (will be mentioned later) for lacework, not only because of that reason, but also because the tips are rather blunt. Not especially blunt, but blunter than I want for lace.  I get scared of the joints of the wire/needle when I do magic loop with these.  I'd recommend using a LONG FIXED circulars for Magic loops, because of that reason and the 'connector snag' reason.  I would like to try the Addi Lace series one day,  I hear it has the turbo fastness and with sliight stickiness to avoid slipping stitches.


Hiya-Hiya: I've got couple metal circulars to accommodate the 16" circulars that are not available in interchangeable sets.  They don't usually have interchangeable sets under 24" due to the minimum length the needle has to be, the connector, and the wire.  Half to 3/4 price of Addi, works just fine for me in place.  If you want to try Addi but don't want to pay as much, but still curious about metal needles, go for these.

eKnittingneedles.com: I've got tons of circular needles, tons of DPNs (8" and 5"), and crochet hooks.  I blame these guys for the amount of needles I have (not in a bad way) LOL.  If you want affordable and a 'decent' quality, go ahead and get a set.  Unfortunately the bamboos are too blunt and too sticky for me now, but its still JUST FINE.  I use their DPNs to finish off hats and do small circumference when I don't feel like magic-looping.  I might like magic looping with these 40" circulars than with Addi.  1) its fixed, so no connector problem. 2) the cable gets fatter according to needle thickness, so you don't get as much of that "squeezing the stitches back on the needle" action.  Anyways, I will emphasize how AFFORDABLE they are, before I move on to the next. 
Their crochet hooks gets a mixed review from me.  I got this set to accommodate the US sizes and the bigger hooks that Hamanaka didn't have (or, I just didn't get a chance to buy).  The bigger hooks worked better, but the smaller hooks had some 'severe/sudden' indentation, so it catches yarn well, but it doesn't release well.

Knitpicks: I've got straigts (Harmony Wood=HW), DPNs(Nickel Plated=NP), circulars (both HW and NP), Interchangeable Nickel Plated and Zephyr.  Knitpicks was the store I randomly came across one day, when I decided to knit a scarf for my husband (boyfriend at that time).  I have a lot of good things to say about Knitpicks, and their needles are no exception.  The first HW straights I got didn't work for me, but that was totally my bad.  Since I was a super beginner, I didn't know a size 6 was that thin (at least that's what I felt at that time), and also I was expecting something like a size 10.  Anyways, I ended up getting a clover size 10 that time, but I still use them. and like them a lot.  Just the right amount of stickiness, and pointy.  It does start hurting your finger a little, but not as bad as Susan Bates. The only problem I had with the HW circulars are that the needles pop off every once in a while.  It's fixable with super glue, but its shocking when it happens. Nikel plated DPNs are nice and sharp, slippery, but I guess it has a veery slight stickiness since it doesn't fall off as easily.  I'm not saying it doesn't.  If you use lighter weight yarn, yes they can totally fall off.  haha. My recent favorite is the NP circulars, especially because I'm doing more and more lacework.  The points are BEYOND useful for lace.  I'm sure most people will recommend the HW for lace since it has a bit more stickiness, but I like using NP.  I'm going to try out the Zephyr interchangeable soon, and probably will end up trying out the other 'option needles'.  As far as I can see in those photos, the connector seem more seamless than Addi.  Oh well, let's see.

 *UPDATE*
I have now tried both NP and Zephyr Options needles.  And the results are----
Yay NP Boo Zephyr.
As expected, the connector is way seamless compared to Addi.  You'll only notice the yarn getting caught when the screws get loose, but if you use the 'key' that comes with the cables, both NP and Zephyr works like a fixed circular.  Amazing.  Now I'm less scared when I use lace weight.
The NP Options is pretty much the exact same as their fixed circular.  I LOVE it.  I'm almost tempted to say I like it more than Addi, but I'm not going to, because my beloved mother and father-in-law gave them to me for Christmas.
On the other hand....I think its the first time I was ever disappointed with a Knitpicks product.  I like the cheapness.  But I found out I just...cannot like any sort of acrylic thing when it comes to knitting.
IT SQUEAKS.
Or maybe it doesn't.  But in any case I 'feel' the squeak vibration through my fingers up to my spine, and I cannot knit with it more than 3 minutes.  I gave a second chance, convincing myself "it was just a bad yarn+needle combination..." since I was using Shine Sport, a rather slippery cotton and modal yarn.  But no, I tried with wool--merino...and it still squeaked.  This made me saaaad.  I took it on an airplane, hoping that the airplane noise will let me not notice the squeak, but like I said earlier, I feel that vibration so it was no use.
If you're ok or used to this squeakiness, this may be the perfect needle for you.  I really envy those people.  I could have gotten a super affordable set from Knitpicks.  I probably won't use this other than placeholders or emergency needles, like if I ever get my NP confiscated at an airport.  If I hadn't liked Knitpicks as much as I do, I would have totally returned them.
Still, I have by no means lost faith in Knitpicks.  They've done soo much more good that one 'blah' doesn't destroy them for me.
That's why I'm going to kinda demote and promote them at the same time by saying "Forget Zephyr.  Get their NP or harmony.  They're a bit more pricey but not tooo much, and worth waaaaay more".

I almost want to keep KnitPicks as unknown as possible but I may be too late.  They are pretty darn affordable and great quality.

I hope these notes helped some people.  I will update as I come across more needles!  which..I probably shouldn't regarding how much I have already.  haha.

Saturday, April 24, 2010

Thank You Scarf

Started: 4/7  Finish : 4/23

This scarf is for my sister!  The original pattern, Renewal Wrap is suppose to be a 'wrap' like its name, but since I had limited amount of time/yarn it became a scarf.

But oh man, lace..is FUN.  I had a couple of super simple stockinette projects with pretty hand-dyed yarn, but they are moving sooooooooo slowly since that brain-twisting tedious messiness of lace seems to be a perfect entertainment for a girl who decided to become an animator :P--I keep on working on the complex projects.





Back when I made these first lacy projects (green one was done in sport, purple in worsted),  I was too afraid of the lace that didn't just go up vertically, but I'm glad I tried it this time.  Now I'm trying out lace in Fingerling and actual LACE weight yarn.  Let's see how it goes.

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Shiba - Spring Scarf and new techniques


Unfortunately, or fortunately, really--I have been pretty busy and have less then half the amount of time to knit.  BUT! I have around...maybe 10 WIP projects in my project bag, which is being carried around everywhere.  This scarf is a spring/summer mini/light weight scarf.  100% cotton, so it's perfect for a chilly night!

Other than that, I have been exploring some new techniques like felting and Nordic techniques, and eventually those 10 projects will be done and will be sold, so tune in!

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Film Geek Scarf Pattern!

I will be posting any erratas and tips on the Film Geek Scarf in this blog entry.
Please feel free to leave comments!



Pattern available on both Ravelry and Etsy.

What's your favorite genre of movies?  Here are some ideas!